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What to eat

Where to take a client to dinner

The restaurant is a tool here. Its job is to let two or six people have a conversation with a purpose, without the room interrupting them, and without the food becoming the topic.

Acoustics are the whole game and are almost always underweighted. If you cannot discuss a number without repeating it, the restaurant has failed regardless of how good the food is. Hard surfaces, open ceilings and music are the signals to avoid; carpet, banquettes, fabric and spacing are the ones to look for.

Service pace is the second variable. You want a kitchen that will hold courses and a floor team that reads a table — coming over during a pause rather than mid-sentence. This is genuinely hard to assess from photographs and genuinely easy to find in reviews, where people describe attentive-but-not-hovering service in exactly those words.

The menu should be good and unremarkable. Something too adventurous forces your guest into a decision they may not want to make in front of you, and a guest who orders badly will be distracted by it. Steakhouses persist for client dinners for a reason that is not culinary: everyone knows how to order at one.

The specifics:

  • Genuinely quiet, with spaced tables — Look for soft surfaces and distance between covers. Reviews complaining it is “a bit sedate” are describing exactly what you want.
  • Reservations honoured on time — A wait with a client is a bad opening you cannot recover from.
  • Service that paces to the table — Courses held, drinks topped, nobody appearing mid-point.
  • A menu that is easy to order from — Recognisable dishes at a clear range of prices. Nothing that requires a decision about how adventurous to appear.
  • A quiet way to handle the bill — Somewhere you can settle without a performance at the table.

What usually goes wrong

Communal tables, small plates that require negotiation, anywhere with a queue, anywhere loud, and anywhere so expensive that the cost becomes a subject. Do not pick somewhere you have never been for a dinner that matters.

What to eat

Worth considering here: steak, Italian food, seafood, Japanese food.