Savor Scout › Food guides › tamales
How to find good tamales
Tamales are labour, which is why they are traditionally made in large batches for holidays and why the best ones are frequently sold from a cooler outside a church, a laundromat or a market rather than from a restaurant.
What separates a good one from a bad one
- Masa that is light, not dense — Properly beaten masa with fat whipped through it is almost fluffy. Dense, heavy masa means it was not beaten enough — the most common failure.
- Real lard — Manteca gives the flavour and the texture. Vegetable shortening makes a tamal that is technically correct and tastes of nothing.
- A thin layer of masa — The masa is the vehicle, not the meal. A thick wall with a teaspoon of filling is a bad ratio.
- Steamed, still hot — Tamales are steamed and should arrive hot and moist. Reheated in a microwave they go rubbery.
- Regional variety — Oaxacan tamales are wrapped in banana leaf and flatter; Mexican-American ones in corn husk. Both are right, and a place offering several is cooking a tradition.
What to order
- Rojo and verde — Pork in red chilli, chicken in green. Buy one of each the first time.
- Rajas con queso — Poblano strips and cheese. The best vegetarian option.
- Oaxacan mole tamal — Banana leaf, mole negro. A different dish and worth finding.
- Dulce — Sweet tamales, often pink, with raisin or pineapple.
- By the dozen — They freeze and steam back perfectly, which is most of the point.
How Savor Scout looks for it
Tamale searches include markets, bakeries and non-restaurant listings, because that is where a large share of the best tamales are sold. The matcher reads for masa and lard language and for weekend or holiday availability, which is a signal of a batch made properly rather than held all week.
Looking in a particular city?
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